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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.